Paxos and Antipaxos
Two small islands near Italy with Maldivian beaches are considered among the most beautiful in Greece.
How to reach Paxos
Paxos is an island very close to Italy and a favorite destination for those traveling by boat from the Apulian coast. You can reach the island by plane to Corfu and then from there a fast boat (1h) or by bus to Lefkimi and then the ferry (2h) or to Ioannina. Or you can get a ferry from Ancona, Bari, or Brindisi to Igoumenitsa by embarking your car or motorbike, then take a second ferry to Paxos lasting 1h30m with Kerkyralines at a modest cost; from Brindisi, you can also dock in Corfu. The port of arrival is Gaios, whose port is very close to the center (10-15 minutes on foot following the beautiful waterfront on the canal).
Gaios
The main village of the island is Gaios and here are the largest number of apartments, hotels, taverns and places for drinking after dinner. It is convenient to stay here because the taxiboats to Antipaxos leave, as well as one-day mini-boat cruises and you can rent boats, scooters, cars and bicycles. Near Gaios there is the very small Gianas beach with the blue water. The characteristic of Gaios is the channel that separates the village from the islet of Agios Nikolaos and the other islet with the church of Nisida Panagia where on August 15th it is celebrated with broth and panagia. In the evening, sailing and motor boats moor on the canal and leave early in the morning to sail the sea. The old school of the village now houses the museum that tells the story of the island.
🍴 Mambo, Capriccio has excellent sweets and ice cream - the supermarket in Gaios is the most expensive on the island
🥂 Manesko and nearby bars have the most music in the evening
🚗 Parking at the beginning of the town or where the new port is.
The beaches of Paxos
The beaches of the island are all wonderful with crystal clear blue water.
Near Gaios you can swim in the bay of Μπάλος (it was deserted when we went), Stafiucha, in front of the church of Agia Marina.
Kipiadi is one of the beaches that we liked the most, the walk is less than ten minutes and there are improvised structures on the shoreline with branches that - if you are lucky enough to find them free - you can use them to shade yourself. The beaches of Kipos and Marmaris are nearby.
For those who want to ensure the shade there are: Erimitis with the very high cliff (recommended in the morning or late to see the sunset, the stairway is very steep with large rock steps - takes about 10 minutes and try to park as close to the stairs as possible) and the beach of Orkos (there are few indications but you can get there with patience, the walk in the woods is sloping but easy and suggestive, lasts less than 15 minutes).
The equipped beaches are Mongonissi, Monodendri, and Levrichio.
The beaches of Antipaxos
Antipaxos has 3 of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Greece. The sand is white and fine and the sea is tinged with a beautiful bright blue. You swim in crystal clear water surrounded by white cliffs and lots of greenery. It's a must-see!
The first beach where the taxi boats stop is Vikra: the bay is collected with white sand, there is a small free beach and in the rest there are deck chairs and umbrellas and two taverns.
The second beach is Mesovrika, but the taxi boats do not stop here and there is no service, it can be reached by boat or a ten-minute walk from Vikra.
The third beach is Voutoumi, the most famous. This bay is wider and creates a natural pool with a gently sloping seabed. The raised part of the beach is covered with large pebbles where sunbeds and umbrellas sink (€20 for two single beds and an umbrella, €40 for beds with mattresses), while the lower part is free and there is white sand. In Voutoumi there is a beach bar and a nice panoramic restaurant "Bella Vista" from which you can see all three beaches.
Only 150 people dedicated to viticulture live on Antipaxos (the island's wine is very good and sought after) and there are very few luxury facilities. The best way to reach the island is to rent a small boat or taxi boats.
The first taxi boats leave at 9.30 am and 10 am from Gaios (in front of the main square), there are various rides during the day and the last one to return is at 5 pm. Cost €20 per person to go and come back and you can take any taxi. The first to arrive in Antipaxos take the most beautiful seats and guarantee sunbeds, especially in July and August.
The smaller taxi boats pass in the middle of the canal and allow you to see the White Church of Ag Spiridon on the uninhabited island and, if you're lucky, even a blue cave.
Sunset, Arch of Triton and Olive Trees
The beauty of Paxos is also linked to the hinterland with the stone houses, the ancient olive trees, and the low walls that border the fields. The tradition of olive growing comes from the Venetians who organized and amplified this business. They went from 20,000 cultivated olive trees in 1577 to 200,000 in less than a century; while the walls were used to build terraces and prevent the ground from sliding. Paxos oil has had great recognition since the 1800s and is still highly appreciated today.
Inland there are walks of all levels that can be done to discover nature or you can go mountain biking.
From the Cave viewpoint (a beautiful little terrace where you can watch the sunset) you can take a walk up to the old mill and the Venetian house with an incredible view from the cliff.
The Arch of Triton can be reached in a quarter of an hour on foot and it is possible to get up to the top (the path is wide and less impervious than it seems). The highest part reaches 20 meters. The name comes from Greek mythology, according to which Poseidon separated the island of Paxos from Corfu with his trident to create his love nest with Amphitrite with whom he generated Triton.
Makritasa, Loggos, Lakka
Makritasa is a typical inland village. Along the road, there is an excellent bakery, the cheapest supermarket on the island, typical taverns where you can eat meat, and a famous club The Bournaos (which is also seen in the television series Maestro in blue) which often plays beautiful live music.
🍴 Averto (high level), O Elias for grilled meat, Grandfather's Hanger tavern under the olive trees
🎸 The Bournaos
Loggos is a small fishing village with a small port, very nice to visit in the evening or stop at Le Rochel, Taxidi or Roxy bar for a beer or coffee by the water. Nearby there are some beautiful beaches not too far on foot.
🍴Bouloukos on Levrichio beach, good fish and beautiful by day and by night.
Lakka is a bigger village than Loggos and very pretty even during the day. The style is a mix between Greece and Italy, with colorful houses, many taverns and large flowering bougainvilleas. Here is the school used in the Maestro television series.
🍴 Alexandros and the tavern next door. The Only Traditional Bakery
Helpful tips:
Ferry: from Igoumenitsa or Corfu.
Boat rental starts from €70 in low season to which the cost of petrol must be added. Various types of motor boats can be rented in Gaios, Lakka, and Logos.
Where to sleep: Gaios is the most comfortable village to get around and in addition to the apartments there are also hotels; everywhere on the island, there are beautiful seaside villas.
Where to eat: Bouloukos for fish, OR Elias for grilled meat, Grandfather's Hanger Greek tavern.
Where to see the sunset: View of Cave panoramic terrace and Erimitis bar-restaurant.
Affordable supermarket: in the center of the island, the Eco Market or in Lakka, Angelo's. Tip: if you're staying in an apartment, consider doing your shopping in Igoumenitsa.
In Gaios, the internet may not be available when you arrive, so prepare your navigator in advance on the ferry.
Lots of sun cream, rock shoes, a hat, and an umbrella!
Language? No problem, many here speak Italian
Is it suitable for children? Yes, with rock shoes, and get used to walking a little. Or Antipaxos for the sand and shallower seabed. 🏝️
Boat tour 40 euros to see the beaches of Paxos, Antipaxos, and the main points such as the Blu caves and the Arch of Triton (you don't stop too much anywhere) and depart from the port of Gaios; just take a walk in the evening and ask for information.
An important music festival has been held here since July link
See the Netflix series "Maestro in Blue" that was filmed on this island.
Have a nice trip!
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